GARETH'S SOUTH AMERICAN TRAVELS
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SUNDAY FEB 18: 08:50:18PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Just driven across Patagonia. Mostly on gravel. Now eating and watching the sun set over the Andes. Tomorrow we drive to the Andes then Route 40.
SUNDAY FEB 17: 10:57:10PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Just finishing a Lattitude 33 Malbec for 5.00.
SUNDAY FEB 17: 10:53:33PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Travelling with Tim Spiers and his girlfriend Megan to Ushiaua [the most southern city in the world].
THURSDAY FEB 21: 03:44:06PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: At Chilean border but problems with papers. We have to drive 40 miles back to city. Now we try again. Another 40 miles back to the border Soon out of phone signal.
THURSDAY FEB 21: 10:19:02PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: In Roco restaurant. Have great food via Malbec-Syrah. Supposed to be one of best places in Los Gallegos. I agree. We drive back to go forward to Ushuaia. Fly El Calafte tomorrow.
THURSDAY FEB 21: 10:31:52PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Been a real South American adventure. One for the bar for years to come.
FRIDAY FEB 22: 04:22:17PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: 2 hour delay at El Calafte airport. Dumped car at Los Alamos, a 5-star in town. I return on the 27th to stop a nite and drive Route 8 then Route 3. Tonight in Hombre del Martial 5-star!
SATURDAY FEB 23: 05:24:36PM - EMAIL
From Gareth Rowland K11:
A slight change of plan. Drove the road from Rio Gallegos to the Argentine/Chile Border four times. First we got our passports stampedæthem found we needed a Customs Form 2112. We scrabbled around the bottom of the glovebox and gave the Customs guy all the paperwork, but to no avail. We had no phone signal and the Customs guy said in halted English for us to go back to a travel agent in Rio Gallagos and get one. So back we went. Back on the phones we contacted Rotary Ramio and our travel agent, who said we needed a Form 2025 which the Customs guy should have. So we drove back again also taking the opportunity to fuel up and hit the link cash machines till they don't work (you have to do this as you never know where you might see the next one). Back at the border we waited in the queue. This time the Custom guy went away and made a call on the landline to Ramio who would explain in Spanish. Turns out we still needed this Form 2112, so we trotted back to Rio Gallagos to find a travel agent. Back in phone range we realised we were stuffed. The problem seems that I am a non-resident so I still might have problems either in Chile or on my return driving alone. Since we had been on the road from 8am and wasted four hours we gave up and found Hotel Pagonia in town, a very nice 4-star town hotel. Meantime we hit the cash machines again and pondered our options. Tim and Megan were booked on a flight from Ushuaia late on the 23rd back to Buenos Aires so they had to be there. My opotoins were open. There were no flights from Rio Gallagos so the only option was to backtrack the 500km we had just driven back to El Calefate and get a flight to Ushuaia for Tim and Megan. I decided to go as well, but stop there till the 27th and then return to the Los Alamos hotel (the best 5-star in town) for the night in El Calefate. When we get to Ushuaia we are booked in the Cumbres del Martial, another stunning 5-star hotel overlooking the town. But now stuck in the hot and stuffy airport lounge at El Calefate with the flight delayed over two hours, but at least I found a beer and a powerpoint (one for me and one for the PC)!!
SATURDAY FEB 23: 12:17:50AM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Pilots had one hour strike. Our plane to Ushiaua cancelled. 9 hours waiting. I'll go to hotel then try tomorrow. Tim and Megan must fly to Buenos Aires tomorrow but all flights are full! Hope they're OK.
SATURDAY FEB 23: 12:21:26AM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Tim and Megan have to wait overnight in airport to see if he can get on a full flight at 4am. I am on bus waiting to go to a hotel. If I have to wait too long for a flight tomorrow I'll stay in El Calafte,
SATURDAY FEB 23: 2:04:36AM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Been given hotel for night. We'll see at midday tomorrow about flight.
SATURDAY FEB 23: 09:38:13AM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Now waiting at airline offices. Hoping for midday flight but I don't think so. Third world infrastructure is creaking under the new skin of buildings.
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GARETH'S CELLPHONE UPDATE LOG OF REGATTA
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MESSAGE ONE: WEDNESDAY FEB 10: 9:56:53AM - MOBILE TXT
Packing bags. Panic mode as I'm overweight. Staying at Gatwick hotel tonight to save trip Thursday. Gales and rain forecast.
MESSAGE TWO: THURSDAY JAN 31: 10:03:09PM - MOBILE TXT
Arrived Sofitel Hotel at Gatwick. Just having a muscle relaxant, a bottle of white wine from Kent with food. I've hit the papers at home. On front page and Page 3 of the local newspaper.
MESSAGE THREE: FRIDAY FEB 1: 8:28:35AM [Argentinian time] - MOBILE TXT
In South America. Wheelchairs are wonderful in airports. Now transferring to national airport to fly to Igasscu Falls. Another two hours business class!
MESSAGE FOUR: SATURDAY FEB 2: 9:04:24AM - MOBILE TXT
Taken taxi into town to eat local river fish. Place is like wild west but no horses! Scruffy cars and kids on wrecks of mopeds. Been to physio. That hurt.
MESSAGE FIVE: SUNDAY FEB 3: 7:12:08PM - MOBILE TXT
Did Brazil today. Foot getting better.
MESSAGE SIX: MONDAY FEB 4: 3:17:25PM - MOBILE TXT
Choices? Hmmm? BBQ steak or fish overlooking Paraguay and Brazil. Tricky choice. Gone native. GPS works great. Can leave tourists behind and see local life. 32 degs C, hot sun.
MESSAGE SEVEN: MONDAY FEB 4: 3:20:44PM - MOBILE TXT
Cannot get lost. Have GPS at street level. Means I can go "native". So much better than tourist places and real people. Need crash course in Spanish but can order beer, food and ask for loo.
MESSAGE EIGHT: MONDAY FEB 4: 8:05:15PM - MOBILE TXT
Swam in pool and had a martini overlooking Igasscu Falls. Went for physio. Didn't know ankle can click so many times! Glowing now. Downing an Argentinian chardonnay and watching sunset.
MESSAGE NINE: TUESDAY FEB 5: 9:23:45AM - MOBILE TXT
Arrived Patagonia. Plane delayed. On bus to hotel.
MESSAGE TEN: TUESDAY FEB 5: 10:23:45AM - MOBILE TXT
Met at airport. Germans not happy with their one-star hotel. Six on the bus going to Rada Tilly.
MESSAGE ELEVEN: TUESDAY FEB 5: 11:13:07AM - MOBILE TXT
Wow, seafront hostelia with a bar! Downing a Bud to celebrate arrival. Hotel two blocks from the clubhouse. Tired. Leg hurts but happy to be here.
MESSAGE TWELVE: WEDNESDAY FEB 6: 5:41:28PM - MOBILE TXT
Net not working so went for a paddle to cool ankle. Having a beer in casino. Strong wind blowing sand. Eating at 9pm. Everyone so laid back. Looking in container for yacht.
MESSAGE THIRTEEN: WEDNESDAY FEB 6: 6:53:18PM - MOBILE TXT
No news on New Zealanders' arrival. Tim Spears arriving in Commodoro hotel. German container only arrived two days ago! No sailing till Friday. Security! Will take Potty mini-yacht to next beach.
MESSAGE FOURTEEN: WEDNESDAY FEB 6: 7:02:36PM - MOBILE TXT
Pix ready. Hotel Net broke. Club not open yet. Germans have rented a ROV so only wanted hotel for two nights but it was not safe??Going for a jacuzzi bath. Seeing Pablo at 9.
MESSAGE FIFTEEN: WEDNESDAY FEB 6: 9:40:21PM - MOBILE TXT
Drinking beer and watching sun set behind town. Strange light. So bright. Visibility over 20 miles. Got Argentinian SIM card but phone not Quad Band. Only works in cities. Bugger!
MESSAGE SIXTEEN: WEDNESDAY FEB 6: 10:51:41PM - MOBILE TXT
These Argentinians eat late. Just sitting down to lamb and a nice red Malbec. Thomas Leithoff arriving. Pablo Reyes going to fetch him.
MESSAGE SEVENTEEN: WEDNESDAY FEB 6: 12:35:18AM - MOBILE TXT
Oh dear, just finished eating and returned to Pablo's car. Someone broke a window and stole his laptop. Now at police station.
MESSAGE EIGHTEEN: SATURDAY FEB 9: 06:21:14AM - MOBILE TXT
Get woken up with severe pain in ankle 6am every morning. Organisation making huge preps four opening today. Hope to provide near real time info.
MESSAGE NINETEEN:
RACEDAY ONE SUNDAY FEB 10: 09:56:53PM - PHONE CALL
From Gareth Rowland K11: Lots of action today. A Class 2 went swimming, a Class 3 broke its mast when winning race, it was all happening. Wind was all over the place, light one minute, blowing strong the next. Wind eventually turned 180 degrees and the starters ended up shifting the course for the c5s and Promos. Everyone got in one race apiece. Not sure where I finished, results aren't yet up. Tim Spiers finished 5th in Class 5. Bill Nairn from New Zealand was 5th and Colin Palmer from New Zealand was 8th in Class 2.
From Colin Palmer, New Zealand: Was a frustrating day. Finished 8th in Class 2! Got beaten by yachts I built 20-odd years ago. I haven't sailed for five years and that told. I spent too much time focusing on everyone else instead of sailing my own race. I've built a new yacht, a little experimental and it needs working on. I arrived four days early to iron out any problems but we weren't allowed to use the beach until Friday so I'm having to set up the yacht as we race. Today's wind was shifty, slightly offshore, and gusting up and down. Nice beach though. Had to do some repairs overnight. During the practice race I tore out the mast step. The rig dropped and scrapped the sail. Not a major repair. There was an offshore breeze which got to 20 knots gusting 30 and it was coming down between the town's buildings and down the valley. I got caught out. Graham Roberts (NZ) broke his Class 3 axle before he even started. He asked 3 of us to test it out for him by jumping up and down on it and we snapped it. He replaced it before the race but the replacement lasted only 200 metres before it broke as well! Phil Augustin (NZ) did pretty well in his Class 3 coming in 10th. One of the Class 2s sailed off to Africa during the race. Took a while to figure out what was going on and what all the activity was down at the water's edge. Turned out it was Henri Demuysere who I bought a yacht off for this event but couldn't fit in it! Henri evidently collided with another c2 yacht during the race, with the other yacht breaking its axle. I think they were the two leading yachts. Henri got out, tossed his helmet up the beach and went over to see if the other pilot was OK and as he walked away his c2 sailed into the sea, heading for Africa. It kept going out beyond the waves before it capsized and sank. Someone swam out later on and hitched a rope to it and they towed it back to shore with a truck. It was pretty dramatic.
MESSAGE TWENTY:
RACEDAY TWO MONDAY FEB 11: 8:41PM - EMAIL
From Gareth Rowland K11: Our British class 5 pilot Tim Spiers nearly collapsed with heat exhaustion after winning his race in 40 deg heat and a hot lumpy, gusty wind. The wind was directly offshore, well sometimes! The shifty wind had all of on our toes, the only way to safely park the yachts on the start line was to tip them over as some yachts "escaped". At the briefing you were told the wind was strong, shifty and if you wish to stop racing you may. We were told the wind was even stronger and more dangerous down the south of the beach. Speeds were 120kmph as you were hurtled down the beach with gust after gust whacking the sail sometimes taking you right across the beach as you tried to control the hike/powerslide. You just never knew! The north mark from sea to land was "interesting". You approached at speed trying to maintain momentum as you rounded the mark and sailed south sailing into a relatively light wind and waiting for the gust that had you instantly flying again. In my case it was crank in the mast control a bit, let out the traveller and sheet in. The first lap was frightening but after that it was "sort of safe". You had no clue as to where or when the strong gusts would come as the sand did not blow on the beach much. I think everyone had their "moment(s)"... all this and try not to get sun-fried in the hot wind!
MESSAGE TWENTYONE:
RACEDAY TWO MONDAY FEB 11: 9:10:39PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Crazy, still waiting for prizes and today's results! Drinking beer in hot wind. Tired and hungry.
MESSAGE TWENTYTWO:
RACEDAY THREE TUESDAY FEB 12: 11:59:05AM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Tim [Spiers] in trouble. Don't think he can sail! Looking bad from dysentry. I said think of England and leave a brown streak along the beach... it'd be just like Brean then!!
MESSAGE TWENTYTHREE:
RACEDAY THREE TUESDAY FEB 12: 11:12:05PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: At FISLY Dinner. Tim won his race. We [Class 3] were first up this morning but no wind. Had to push-hop. Then two more races but wind turned 180 degrees before second race. Weird!
MESSAGE TWENTYFOUR:
RACEDAY THREE TUESDAY FEB 12: 11:17:54PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: I'm making a special presentation at tonight's FISLY Dinner to Pablo Reyes from our town [Mablethorpe]! Sitting with German FISLY rep and his wife and some Dutch. Red wine flowing at last but maybe stick with water!! Main course served. Yum yum.
MESSAGE TWENTYFIVE:
RACEDAY THREE TUESDAY FEB 12: 11:16:05PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: I am knackered! Len Warren at home. Tim stopping in to be safe. Left him at pilots' wine and prizegiving evening but there's no prizes. They don't know that. Officials and jury at FISLY Dinner in Commodoro while the pilots are in Rada Tilly expecting prizes!! C'est la vie.
MESSAGE TWENTYSIX:
RACEDAY THREE: WED FEB 13: 12:54AM - MOBILE PH CALL
From Gareth Rowland K11: The wind is so weird here, it's incredible! It can be blowing it's b-lls off, then goes dead for 5 minutes, literally shifts round 180 degrees, puffs up and within 15 minutes is blowing a Force 7! That's what happened today. And it comes gusting through the centre of the tow, through the gaps in the buildings. It's certainly challenging. You get gusts within gusts. You're hit with a bloody great whack, then all of a sudden 5-6 seconds of the first whack, you get another one... bumpf! And when you're thinking you're well up the beach with plenty of room the next second you're heading towards the sea, fast. The wind pulls you across the beach if you're not quick enough. In today's second Class 3 race, about 2 o'clock, I remembered to turn my GPS on and recorded 92.1kmp/h. I forgot to turn it on again in Race 3 which was run at 6pm. We were first up today and we started off virtually downwind. We dribbled down the beach in and out of big holes in the wind till we got near enough to threequarters down to the mark and eventually stopped. For me it was hopeless with my leg. I had to hop and skip to get the yacht going again but they eventually cancelled the race which was no bloody good to me being down the bottom end of the course. How was I to get back? By the time I got hobbled, hopped and skipped back they'd run the Promos and I think the Standarts and Tim Spiers was just heading out to the start in his Class 5. He didn't really want to race, he was so ill, but I said "Go on, think of England" and he did, good man! He won hands down. He's got the yacht sorted and is now the Class 5 leader. Evidently the "Argentinian belly" lasts round 3 days. Len Warren got it the day before. The starter called us Class 3s up again fairly late on when the tide was coming in. It was like Ninety Mile Beach in New Zealand. You got big sweepers running across the beach. Think I finished 10th or 11th and could have gone better if I'd had a proper start. I had position No. 4 on the grid but started from the back, hobbling along, as my pusher, one of the Jury, didn't turn up til late.
MESSAGE TWENTYSEVEN:
RACEDAY FOUR: WEDNESDAY FEB 13: 08:32:11PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Tim had a 1st and 2nd today. A few prangs but all OK. Discovered Timal Factor 40 suncream helps put tyres on!.
MESSAGE TWENTYEIGHT:
RACEDAY FIVE: THURSDAY FEB 14: 04:28.36PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Very windy but not so gusty. It's sail if you wish. 106kmp/h max speed. I'm using small sail. Out again soon.
MESSAGE TWENTYNINE:
RACEDAY FIVE: THURSDAY FEB 14: 04:39:17PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Looks like Tim's wind today. A little more south along the beach. I am using old 6 sq m sail from New Zealand days... that's old, that was back in 1996! Feels safer.
MESSAGE THIRTY:
RACEDAY FIVE: THURSDAY FEB 14: 04:52:37PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Tim was winning his race but snapped stub axle. He's now putting spare on. Standarts up next.
MESSAGE THIRTYONE:
RACEDAY FIVE: THURSDAY FEB 14: 05:32:11PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Hoping for one more Class 3 race before the wind drops.
MESSAGE THIRTYTWO:
POST-REGATTA: SUNDAY FEB 17: 09:34:09PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Outside Juan Joes bar with Len helping him out with a nice Tempranillo for last night. Tomorrow we [Tim, Megan and I] drive to Route 40 tomorrow.
MESSAGE THIRTYTHREE:
POST-REGATTA: SUNDAY FEB 17: 10:07:21PM - TXT
From Gareth Rowland K11: Now with Colin Palmer and New Zealand team inside.
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GARETH'S TRAVEL LOG
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THURSDAY JANUARY 30:
Made my way down to Gatwick the day before I flew to South America, as the British weather forecast was gales and rain. Nothing worse than rushing to an airport with what is technically a broken leg. Walking with a stick does take the weight off the leg but how to carry the bags around the airport and along the concourses to the airplane. I upgraded my tickets to business class, then amazing things happened... a wheelchair is provided at check-in, the big bag was taken away and with one walking stick and your hand baggage I was whisked away through passport control and the security. At least you had a helper (pusher). It's 10 years since I have been on a plane, last time to New Zealand. Anyway had the all-clear from security. On the aircraft I had plenty of foot room so rested my right ankle, then all the business papers arrived, that kept me busy for the short flight to Madrid.
At Madrid I again opted for the "assistance", another pusher arrived with wheel chair and I was transported past all the other passengers right into the 747-400. I was pleased I had the upgrade looking at the economy seats I don't think the swollen ankle would have stood the trip. In the business class you had twice as much space a large reclining chair and most important for me you could raise the leg, unfortunately a Spanish woman sat next to me and we could not communicate so my world for the next 12 hours across the North and South Atlantic was my chair and the rough guide to Argentina, some damn good food was served once we were on our way, I opted for the fish and some white wine chased by a whisky in the coffee, hope that the effect would be the same as a sleeping pill. It worked pretty well 5 hours sleep then cat napping till breakfast was served. The plane landed just after 7am. I opted for the wheel chair assistance and picked up my bags, by now time was moving towards 8am and the connecting flight was at the national airport the other side of Buenos Aires in rush hour! I had a private transfer but was taken in my wheelchair directly to the taxis. I wasn't worth the translation that I wanted to go back to the arrivals that I had bypassed so I jumped in a taxi and trotted across Buenos Aires. Arrived at the National airport with 15 minutes to spare after a quick introduction into driving manners in a South American city. You can sweat in an airconditioned cab!!
On the plane I was again in business class. You cannot get better than seat 1A! Ninety minutes later I exited, greeted by the humidity of Iguasu. The local guide picked me up and took me to the Sheraton Hotel. I did want to stop in the old colonial hotel on the Brazilian side but it was all booked up. It was midday and I was planning on putting my feet up, but with the sub-tropical forest outside my door and a guide who spoke English offering to take me to the falls, how could I refuse. I decided to ditch the stick and take it slowly along the upper and low paths to the falls. My guide told me about all the flora and fauna, at least there was nothing nasty that was going to eat or drink me. I was just warned to keep clear of some plants as some are poisonous. I took a loads of pictures of the falls. I knew I had some good ones but was staggered at the colours and the water.
I decided to go native as soon as possible. My guide booked me a taxi at seven and sent me the 20kms to the local town of Porto Iquazu to a local fish restaurant where I had the local river fish, Suburi. The town is "interesting".
SATURDAY FEBRUARY 1:
My personal guide met me at 8.30am and off we went to Brazil! Well past Porto Iquazu over the bridge where You had you passport stamped, again the guide helped a lot knowing exactly what to do and where to go. First was a jeep safari through the sub tropical forest. My guide explained all the flora and fauna and the ones not to touch (poison). It was a short walk to the river boat where I saw people coming back in soaking wet! The idea is take the boat up the rapids to the Three Musketers, (three of the water falls) the guy on the boat has great pleasure in driving this under the waterfall a couple of times, we were told, but at least the cold water improved my ankle. After returning back down the river your hair was blown dry and any clothes you had started to dry. Back on the jeep and back to where you started. My guide took me to the old colonial hotel for a quick look then on to the restaurant at the foot of the falls. It was Saturday afternoon and was packed so we opted for a sandwich. You could see the Sheraton Hotel the other side of the gorge but you had to take the 30-40km ride back.
I decided to stop in the hotel and had some physio on my ankle, Yes, it hurt! Had some food later and hit the sack knackered. As it was a 7.30 start at the hotel lobby for a jeep safari in the bush!
MONDAY FEBRUARY 4:
Was up early and packed my bags ready for the hour and a-half flight back to Buenos Aires. The national airport was pretty much chaos. Opted for assistance again and got escorted to the departure lounge. Had to wait three hours, so did some shopping. The flight to Comodoro Rivadavai took two and a-half hours and the aircraft was 20 minutes late. Arriving we were met by some club members and driven by bus to Rada Tilly. The Germans travelling with us were booked into a hotel in Comodoro, but the hotel looked pretty poor and even the club members said it's not safe! So it was all back on the bus. I was dropped off at the hotel Arenas, a very nice hosteria, which is a cross between a hotel and a B&B. The best translation I have is that the owners live there but rent rooms out, more later. The great thing it had wireless network, a room with a first floor of the whole beach, it's one block from the sailing clubhouse and another bar is one block inland and the casino is three blocks south, and they have pushbikes that you can use for free.
TUESDAY FEBRUARY 5:
I made use of the hotel's pushbike and did a square round trip of the town, found the supermarket, petrol station and some other shops. Had a quick look round the clubhouse where feverish preparations were being made to get the area ready. I met Pablo and acquired the key to the Belgian container. A pushbike ride up to the north of the beach had the container checked out, all was OK. Back at the Hotel I met Ramio, the president of Rada Tilly Rotary club. As the tide was in we went for lunch at the southern end of the beach. On the way I got a local pay-as-you-go-fonecard, so at least local phone calls don't cost an international call! In the afternoon I spent some time trying to get the hotel's internet connection working as it had stopped. Seems it was in vain as the Server was down. Met a few other pilots as they floated in and caught up with old friend Thomas Leithoff from Berlin. We decided to have a day trip to Cabo Dos Bahais to see the penguin colony.
WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 6:
First experience of driving out of town, with Thomas at the wheel in a Corsa that had seen better days, we drove for two hours along the Rt3 North through the Pampa Salamanca, a 1500ft high plateau almost flat with a straight road carved across it, where the only bends was probably decided by the road engineer. We then turned off to rt 30 at the Estancia Conuto, just a petrol station, bus stop and a shack. A remote place!
At the end of rt 30 was a village of Camarones you turn off the tarmac and onto dirt road for another hour, the was to drive these roads demands concentration the surface is is round loose stones graded to the consistency of large marbles, so it was back to ice sailing days where you treat the road as ice. No more than 50 kmh as the back axle tries to over the front. Rises in the road we fun as you could not expect which way to persuade the car as you rattled down hill, so the experience is just like driving on marbles. We finally found the entrance to the reserve and the rough guide said turn left to find a cafe, What a remote place! The cafe was in a inlet with one yacht and the deepest blue sea you have ever seen. I think we were the only visitors that day. Had a lunch of prawns wrapped in bacon was down by Quillmess, the local beer.
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